1. Explain what a shampoo and a conditioner needs to do in order to be suitable for the hair and be effective.
2. Give you two lovely recipes (that work) to try out at home – one for a natural shampoo and one for a natural conditioner.
3. Give you free access to our Natural Shampoo and Conditioner Recipe Book, which contains two natural shampoo and conditioner recipes that work, plus a hair butter recipe, which also works! You can download it here for free.

This way you will have some basic knowledge of how to make a natural shampoo and a natural conditioner, and you will also have access to five gorgeous natural shampoo and conditioner recipes that work, are suitable for the hair and scalp, and follow best practices – DIY haircare created professionally, if you like! 

How to make natural shampoo and conditioner 

Making natural haircare products is not complicated, but it does require some knowledge about what hair actually needs in order to stay healthy, shiny and strong.

Well-formulated shampoos will have the correct composition to do three core things:

1. Cleanse the hair (removing dirt, sebum and styling products, without stripping the hair of all beneficial oils).
2. Close the cuticles on the surface of the hair (protecting the underneath layers from damage).
3. Balance the hair’s pH (decreasing static that causes tangles and damage).

The equipment you need to make a natural shampoo and conditioner

Luckily, to make natural products at home you don’t need too much equipment. What you do need is inexpensive kitchen or lab equipment which is easy to find both in stores and online.

• Thermometer, such as an inexpensive glass lab thermometer.
• Digital scales (ideally that measure to 0.1g).
• Electric stick blender for creating emulsions (conditioners).
• Measuring beakers/jugs – heat-proof glass lab beakers are ideal.
• A double boiler/water bath/bain-marie.
• pH strips or a pH meter (pH strips are easier for beginners).
• Hand whisk, spoons, spatulas.
• Protective clothing to protect both you and your products, eg gloves.

Where to buy specialist emulsifiers and surfactants?

The formulas below use two specialist ingredients, a cationic emulsifier called Varisoft EQ65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol) and a very mild anionic surfactant called Perlastan SC25 (INCI: Aqua, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate).

Varisoft EQ65 is a naturally derived and biodegradable cationic emulsifier that is permitted in Ecocert and COSMOS standards. It creates thick emulsions with good conditioning properties. You can find Varisoft at Alexmo Cosmetics (DE), Lotioncrafter (USA), Gracefruit (UK), Formulator Sample shop EU (IT), Save on Citric (USA), Windy Point Soap (CA). If you can’t obtain it we have provided substitution suggestions below the formula.

Perlastan SC25 is a very mild anionic surfactant, ideal for making gentle cleansing products like shampoo or body wash. It is sulfate-free and permitted in COSMOS, Ecocert and NaTrue certifications. As it comes in the form of a 25% active solution in water, it’s also very easy to work with. An alternative is sodium cocoyl glutamate which is more widely available. You can find this surfactant on Amazon, Mystic Moments (UK), Soap Kitchen (UK) SkinChakra (DE), Garden State Naturals (USA), Les Ames Fleurs (CA), New Directions (AU), Personal Formula Resources (Malaysia), Flowertales Cosmetics (IT), The Sourcery (NZ).

For other ingredients check the supplier listed on our supplier list.

Free Natural Recipe: Gentle Aloe and Lavender Shampoo for Normal Hair

Formulation

Recipe

Ingredient substitutions:

Perlastan SC 25 is also sold by its INCI name Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate. If you can’t buy Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate then you can use sodium cocoyl glutamate instead. If the active matter is the same (25%) then it can be substituted like for like. There are other surfactants you could use too, which you can learn about in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation. 

Instructions

1. Mix phase A1 ingredients in a separate container to make a slurry.
2. Combine the rest of phase A ingredients and mix until all of them are dissolved and homogenous.
3. Add A1 to A and mix. If there are any lumps of xanthan gum, disperse them with a stick blender.
4. Add phase B, mix thoroughly. 
5. Measure and adjust the pH to approximately 4.5. You can decrease the pH to 4.5 by using a 10% citric acid solution (10% citric acid, 90% purified water) and adding a little at a time until you reach your desired pH. More information about testing and adjusting pH is provided in our courses.

Is it going to cleanse the hair gently?

Yes, the shampoo contains a balanced combination of surfactants (Perlastan and decyl glucoside) to effectively clean the hair without being harsh or drying the scalp and hair.

Is it safe from contamination?

Yes, the formula contains a broad-spectrum preservative at an appropriate level.

Will it balance hair pH levels?

Yes, the shampoo will have a suitable pH after the last step. This pH will ensure the hair cuticles remain closed.

As you can see, there are several considerations to take into account when making a shampoo formula: choosing the right ingredients, at the right levels and the right manufacturing process. This is necessary to formulate gentle yet effective shampoo.

Now let’s have a look at a conditioner formula.

Free Natural Recipe: Shea and Coconut Conditioner for Dry Hair

Formulation

Recipe

Ingredient substitutions:

If you can’t buy Varisoft EQ65 then you can use BTMS-25 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate) instead, which is much more widely available, and naturally derived though not COSMOS-approved. (Varisoft EQ65 is COSMOS-approved). If you use BTMS-25 then you should increase the amount of emulsifier to 5% and decrease the amount of water to 75.4%.

Coconut CO2 extract can be difficult or expensive to obtain. You could substitute this with a CO2 extract or essential oil of your choice (check the usage rates with your supplier).

Instructions

1. Weigh out the ingredients for phase A and add them to a container. Heat phase A in a water bath to 85°C (185°F) and stir occasionally. 
2. Mix phase B ingredients in a separate container and heat in a water bath to 85°C (185°F).
3. Hold both phases at 85°C (185°F) for 10 minutes. To account for water evaporation during heating, weigh the container with phase A ingredients before heating and take a note of the weight. After the 10 minutes have passed, weigh the container again to see how much water has evaporated. Add the appropriate amount of purified water to compensate for any water lost during heating. Alternatively you could cover the beaker with plastic/Saran wrap whilst heating, which will also prevent evaporation.
4. Mix phase A and B together and emulsify using a stick blender or a homogenizer.
5. Cool the mixture down, stirring occasionally. You can use a cold water bath to speed the process up.
6. Once the mixture cools to below 40°C (104°F), add phase C ingredients and mix using a spoon or stirrer. 
7. Measure and adjust the pH to 5.0. You can decrease the pH to 5.0 by using a 10% citric acid solution (10% citric acid, 90% purified water) and adding a little at a time until you reach your desired pH. More information about testing and adjusting pH is provided in our courses.

Will it smooth the hair surface?

Yes, because of a combination of suitable pH and a cationic emulsifier, the conditioner will close the cuticles and give a smooth finish to the hair.

How can I make my own natural and organic haircare products?

The fast track to creating and using your own complete range of natural haircare products is by enrolling on to our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation. It is a multimedia online course that you access via our easy-to-use virtual classroom meaning you study at home, from wherever you are in the world, in your own time, at your own pace.

On this fabulous online course, you also have access to a vibrant online student and graduate community, where you can collaborate with and learn from your student peers and seek help from experienced graduates. They are all passionate about natural and organic cosmetics and come together to create a wonderfully supportive environment.

On the course, you’ll learn to make six different types of natural shampoos, six different types of natural conditioners and a whole range of natural hair styling and treatment products, too. You can find out more information about the course here.

And remember to download your free Natural Shampoo & Conditioner Recipe Book where you’ll get two natural shampoo recipes, two natural conditioner recipes and a natural hair butter recipe!

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Ever wanted to make your own specialized haircare products at home? You can! 

Shampoos and conditioners are, of course, two of the most popular things we teach our students how to make in the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation course, but they definitely aren’t the only things! Here we have a sneak preview of ten amazing natural hair products you can learn how to make for yourself, your friends and family, or even for your own haircare product line. 

#1: Hair Masks and Butters

There are so many hair masks that you can make at home, ones that are safe, effective, and use wonderful natural and organic ingredients. In the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation course, we share a few we love, including a cleansing clay mask and a luxurious monoi beauty butter which can be used as a pre-wash treatment as well as a leave-in conditioner, but when you take the course, you’ll also learn the why of creating your own hair mask formulations from scratch: What ingredients to use, how much, and how to combine them to create truly customized products. 

#2: Hair Oil

A luxurious mixture of emollient butters and oils, hair oil is a great way to nourish the hair and scalp—and you can learn how to incorporate all kinds of specialized active ingredients and essential oils to make it truly customized to your hair’s needs. We provide an amazing hair oil formulation in our diploma course that’s wonderful for stimulating hair growth! 

#3: Hair Wax

Ever thought about making your own styling products? You can! Instead of picking up a product from the shelf, packed with all kinds of things you can’t identify, you can make your own natural, organic hair wax with the amount of hold you want, the scent you want, the feel and packaging you want, right in your own home! 

#4: Hair Gel

Speaking of styling products, yes you can make your own hair gel as well. In the Diploma course, you can find out how easy it is to create a hair gel using the organic, natural, vitamin-enriched hair gel to add a medium-strong hold and a clear shine to your styling routine. (And you’ll also learn how to make sure that your water-based styling products and treatments stay safe and free from any spoiling, by learning about natural options for preservatives!)

#5: Dry Shampoo

It’s one of those things that people swear by between washes to keep their hair fresh, oil-free, and smelling great. Combining oil-absorbing ingredients with powdered botanicals and clays, you can customize a dry shampoo that will get you through the week without feeling like your hair is weighed down by either product or oil. 

#6: Scalp Scrub

When it’s time to detox your hair and get off all of the product build-up, make yourself a scalp scrub that invigorates and cleans without stripping your hair or damaging it. Using natural ground walnut shells as an exfoliator and a beautiful citrus scent, our Citrus Scalp Scrub might just be the thing you need for your routine… and you can get a free recipe for it right here!   

#7:  Anti Frizz Spray

Humidity can be an absolute menace to hair that’s prone to frizzing. Learn how to make an anti-frizz spray that uses all-natural ingredients and doesn’t weigh your hair down, so you can look your best—and feel proud that you made it yourself!

#8: Scalp Serum

Customers are searching for scalp serums that treat their most troublesome issues—dandruff, dry skin, irritation, sensitivity, hair loss. You can learn how to make natural, organic, or cruelty-free serums that meet those needs and don’t compromise on your values. 

#9: Salt Spray

Get that free-spirited, beachy look without having to pack the cooler for a beach trip. We have an amazing recipe for a quick salt spray that adds volume and texture to fine hair. Add in a touch of your chosen essential oil to customize your product for your existing line, or to evoke a memory or feeling—the choice is yours!

#10: Heat Protection Spray

An essential product in anyone’s haircare routine, if you’re using heat to dry and style your hair. Heat-protectant sprays are great for guarding hair from heat damage. Learn what ingredients help strengthen and protect your hair before you style it, and add nourishing moisture to your strands so they’re always looking their best!

Our Diploma in Haircare Formulation provides all of this information and more! Start learning how to make your own haircare products today—safely, naturally, and using the best quality ingredients, to create products that you and your customers will love.

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Caring for your scalp is such an important part of a haircare routine, but it’s often overlooked. Even if they lather up well and you get a good scrub, shampoos are washed off quickly, and conditioners are rarely applied to the scalp. But treatments designed for scalp care can meet your scalp’s needs and offer real benefits. 

On top of it being a good idea for individual use, scalp care is one of the key trends defining haircare in 2019, according to Andrew McDougall, Associate Director of Beauty and Personal Care at Mintel. So it’s good for your scalp, and good for your business, to learn how to make and offer some new scalp treatments! 

Some of the benefits of scalp treatments include:

• Removing dead skin cells on the scalp which can cause inflammation and dandruff
• Stimulating blood circulation around the roots of the hair, which energizes the scalp and promotes hair growth
• Nourishing the scalp and rehydrating in order to prevent breakage
• Massaging the scalp can ease stress and promote an overall feeling of peace and wellbeing
• Taking that extra step towards self-care to make you feel refreshed and confident

Here are some scalp treatments you can learn to make yourself, as a sneak peek into our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation:

Scalp Serum

Scalp serums are designed to deeply nourish the scalp, using luxury active ingredients that need to stay on the skin to offer more benefit to the scalp and hair roots.  Scalp serums can come in many forms:

• Oil serums: They only contain anhydrous lipophilic ingredients, such as carrier oils, essential oils and oil soluble active ingredients.
• Emulsions: They contain a water phase and an oil phase that are combined with an emulsifier. They can contain oil and water soluble active ingredients.
• Bi-phase serums: They contain an oil phase and a water phase without an emulsifier, so they keep two separate layers in the container. They can contain oil and water soluble active ingredients.
• Water based serums/gel based serums: They are water based products that can be thickened to make a gel. They contain mainly water soluble ingredients, but, depending on the thickeners, can contain small quantities of oil and lipophilic ingredients as well. 

Scalp serums are usually applied to the scalp before washing the hair. They are massaged into the scalp and left to work for 10-30 minutes; sometimes they are even left overnight. After the serum treatment, the hair is washed with a shampoo and conditioner as per usual. 

Scalp Scrub

Scrubs or exfoliating products are well known in skincare and bodycare, but they are fairly new among haircare products. They’re a great treatment option to add to your haircare routine, because keeping the roots of your hair healthy quite clearly leads to healthy hair down the line!  A scalp scrub helps to remove dead skin cells on the scalp that can cause inflammation and dandruff. We also stimulate blood circulation around hair roots, which energizes the scalp and stimulates hair growth.  The exfoliating ingredients in a scalp scrub can be either chemical (AHAs and BHAs) or physical (jojoba beads/pearls, ground dried plant material, salt, sugar, etc). Scalp scrub is typically applied on a wet scalp, gently massaged into it and then rinsed off with water. Scrub treatment is then followed by a regular shampoo and conditioner. Here’s a recipe for one of our most popular scalp-care treatments, which you can find in the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation!

Energizing Scalp Scrub

Before formulating any product, we guide our students through the product development questions to help them select the best ingredients for the outcome they desire. For this product, those questions include: 

• What is the product type? We’re making a scalp scrub that’s meant to be used about two times per week.
• Are we formulating to meet a particular standard or certification? Yes, COSMOS.
• Who is the target audience? All ages, all hair types can use this product!
• What’s the purpose of the product? To remove dead skin cells from the scalp, increase circulation, and energize the scalp. 
• What properties or qualities do we want the product to have? It will be a clear-cloudy gel with the exfoliator suspended in it. It should have a refreshing citrus scent and a slight foaming ability. 
• What kind of packaging will it be in? Whilst many would go for a plastic squeeze tube, if you were to move away from plastic, you could look at a glass or aluminium jar. 

Then, we consider the ingredient—specific questions, such as:

• What thickeners or suspending agents will we use, and why? We’re using Siligel—a natural thickener and suspending agent that’s easy to work with and does not create a sticky or slimy-feeling gel.
• What exfoliating ingredients are we using, and why? We’re using ground walnut shells as a natural exfoliator that won’t dissolve in water, but also won’t contribute to microplastic pollution, as some synthetic exfoliators used in commercial beauty products do. 
• Which humectants are we using, and why? We’re using glycerin and panthenol—they provide moisture and regeneration for the hair and scalp when using the scrub. 
• Which surfactants are we using, and why? We’re using SLSA and decyl glucoside—both are naturally-derived and very mild surfactants which help remove dead skin cells and dirt while rinsing the scrub off. 
• Which active ingredients and/or essential oils are we using, and why? We’re using bergamot and lime essential oils for a refreshing scent. 
• Which other ingredients specific to this product type are we using, and why? We’re using Caprylyl/capryl glucoside to solubilize the essential oils in the water. 

As you can see, each ingredient choice is selected for a purpose, and nothing is chosen at random or just from guessing. The same is true about the actual formulation—which amounts to use, and why. (These are all things we cover in the diploma course!)  And then, the formula of the scrub:

Instructions: 

1. Sprinkle Siligel on the water while stick-blending. Keep blending until the gum is fully dispersed and a gel starts to form.
2. Add phase A ingredients and stir until homogenous. To speed up SLSA dissolving, you may heat phase A in water bath. 
3. Cool down phase A until below 40°C (104°F) and add phase B ingredients. Stir using a spoon or stirrer. 
4. Mix phase C ingredients together and add to phase A+B. Stir until mixed in. 
5. Adjust the pH to 5.0. (You can learn more about how to adjust pH in our haircare course) 

As you can see, making nourishing scalp treatments at home really isn’t as difficult as you might think. With the right formulation knowledge, and the highest quality ingredients, you can make them and start enjoying their benefits right away. Or, gain the confidence to create scalp scrubs and serums that you can begin offering to your customers with your current product line!  We cover these products much more in-depth in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation course, including why the formulations are structured the way they are, how ingredients can be chosen to be the most powerful in your products, as well as how to change them up to customize them safely and perfectly every time. Come check it out and get started today making your own hair scrubs and serums, masks and butters, shampoos and conditioners, styling products, and so much more! 

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Making haircare products isn’t as intimidating, or as complex, as you might think. It just requires an understanding of ingredients, formulation best practices, and how the hair and scalp function. When you break it down, and apply some hands-on training, you can combine that knowledge to make some spectacular natural and organic conditioners—ones that will leave your hair shiny, nourished, smooth, and not greasy or weighed down.

We wanted to share just a bit about the ingredients that go into making conditioners. Although this is not a recipe, or intended to be used as a formulation, it’s a quick overview to help show you that it’s really not so impossible to do it yourself, if you want to try!

Water

When people think of the word ‘solvent,’ they typically think of industrial-grade harsh chemicals used for cleaning things, but technically, anything that’s used as something that other materials or ingredients can dissolve into. Water is a solvent! And it’s the main ingredient in most conditioners because it’s such a great carrier for those water-soluble ingredients. Other water-based ingredients can be used in addition to water, such as aloe vera juice, hydrosols, or infusions, but usually, the best, highest-quality water is a great place to start.

Moisturizers or Humectants

This category of ingredients is what helps provide moisture to the hair, and they work by attracting moisture and binding it to the hair, or skin, to which they’ve come into contact. Different amounts of humectants are better suited for different types of hair. For example, people with frizzy hair need fewer humectants in their conditioners, because attracting moisture is less desired.

Emollients

These are the ingredients that lubricate and soften the hair, and replenish some of the lost lipids along the hair shaft. This makes hair shinier, and easier to comb through. Many common emollients are types of fats, oils, or butters. Again, considering what type of hair you’re formulating for will give you a good guidance as to what type of emollients to use, and how much. Fine hair can’t tolerate heavy emollients, and needs fewer and lighter ones so it doesn’t feel lank and weighed down.

Cationic Ingredients

The cationic ingredients in a conditioner are positively-charged ingredients which adsorb, rather than absorb, to the surface of the hair shaft. While you’re probably familiar with absorbing—an ingredient penetrating all the way through hair or skin—adsorbing is when an ingredient sticks to the surface of the hair. Because hair has a negatively-charged surface, it will attract these positively-charged ingredients and really make the product cling to the surface of the hair, rather than simply washing off to no effect. Cationic surfactants function as emulsifiers in conditioners—holding an emulsion of ingredients which wouldn’t naturally stay together, like oil and water. Cationic polymers in conditioners are used to provide additional conditioning.

Preservative

A product made with water, and no preservative, is a veritable bacteria buffet just waiting to happen. Extend the life of your products and make them safe to use and sell by using a proper preservative every time! There are a few excellent ones to choose from, and we go over the proper use of these essential ingredients in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation.

pH Adjuster

Because typical hair responds best to products that are slightly in the acidic range, using a pH adjuster will help correct your finished product to be just right—somewhere around a 6 is about what we recommend. Some conditioner formulations already happen to end up around this region, but it’s always good to test, check, and adjust if needed.

Thickener

Another ingredient that’s sometimes not necessary, but can be nice to have, is a thickening agent. Sometimes used to help support the stability of an emulsion, and sometimes used to simply make a product feel thicker and less slippery when applied, thickeners are a great way to refine and customize your product, keeping the end user’s goals in mind.

Active Ingredients

Active ingredients for conditioners can include anything from cosmeceuticals to botanical extracts. Remember that typically, conditioner stays on the hair for a longer period of time than a shampoo, so it’s a great place to put those high-powered ingredients that really help out hair!

Fragrance

A wonderful way to set the mood when you’re using a product, customize it to fit your product range, or simply switch it up and make it all about your favorite fragrance, or fragrance blend.

As you can see, making your own conditioner does require specialized knowledge and ingredients you might not be familiar with (yet!) but it’s certainly not impossible. We’ve already helped students learn how they can formulate their own professional-quality haircare products in their own homes. In the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation, we take you through everything you need to know to start from scratch making amazing, invigorating shampoos, deeply nourishing conditioners, and all kinds of hair treatments and styling products.

In the course, you’ll learn:

• What makes something a professional formulation, rather than just a recipe.
• How to formulate from scratch, without wasting ingredients on trial and error.
• Key information about hair biology and hair type.
• Shampoo theory and the science of surfactants.
• Conditioner theory and why emulsification is so essential for the best products.
• Hands-on video help so you can do it at home.

And so much more! Come check it out today, and get started making your own products, just the way you want them: Natural, organic, cruelty-free, vegan… the choice is yours!

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Ayurvedic medicine is an ancient methodology for healing and wellness, and it’s centered around the unity of body, mind, and spirit. It’s primarily based on ancient Indian writings which outline the medical philosophy for the mostly plant-based treatment of a variety of diseases and conditions. Some initial clinical trials of Ayurvedic medicine have shown promising results for pain reduction and improvement in joint function, type 2 diabetes, and digestive problems, and continued trials are still being funded. But as a whole-body healing methodology, Ayurvedic principles can be applied to your skincare and even haircare products. 

Ayurveda divides us into three constitutional types (Doshas): Vata, Pitta and Kapha. It gives individual characteristics for each dosha. You may relate to one or all doshas, and will most likely be a combination of two. 

In the book, A Pukka Life, (written by Sebastian Pole – founder of the inspirational Pukka brand), which is all about Ayurvedic medicine, it specifies certain hair characteristics for each dosha type: 

kapha:

“Often brown, abundant, thick, wavy, can be oily, can have a very hairy body!”.

Sometimes we can experience imbalances that will lead us to have excess in one specific dosha – these imbalances can often be pacified with certain ingredients – both on the inside and outside of our bodies! 

A deeper understanding of Ayurvedic medicine, as well as understanding what’s unique to your haircare needs and your body, can help you seek out specific Ayurvedic ingredients that treat and nurture these different types of hair. For example, someone who has a pitta imbalance may benefit from using Brahmi, as it can cool and soothe the scalp and hair. 

Note: Ayurvedic medicine is not intended to be the first line of defense against a medical condition. Please consult with your doctor or healthcare provider and seek out a wide range of treatment options to find the one that may be the very best for you and for your body!

Ayurvedic Ingredients for Haircare

Dating back to ancient Indian formulations, Ayurvedic ingredients have been traditionally used as hair cleansers and conditioners for centuries, and while some of them may be familiar—aloe vera powder, green tea powder, and kelp powder, for example—others might be new or more challenging to source if you’re just getting started. 

A few others we love to work with include Spirulina powder, which is a powerful ingredient rich in nutrients and trace elements, and is beneficial for scalp health. We also work with Hibiscus flower powder, on the other hand, has nutrients which boost hair growth and also provide a subtle enhancement to red tones in the hair. 

Other ayurvedic ingredients may be less familiar to new formulators, but can have wonderful benefits when incorporated into your haircare formulations. Bhringaraj powder has properties which help prevent hair loss and breakage, while Brahmi powder stimulates hair growth and works against dandruff. 

(We cover a number of these ingredients, and more, in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation!)

Formulating Ayurvedic Shampoo

When creating an Ayurvedic shampoo, the primary ingredients are going to be plant powders with saponins. Saponins are surfactants which clean the hair, much like surfactants that are included in liquid shampoos. To these powders, we add plant powders such as amla powder, shikakai powder, and sidr powder, which have nourishing and conditioning ingredients. We also use ginger and lime essential oils, which provide fragrance as well as a powerful stimulating effect on the scalp. 

Working with Ayurvedic ingredients and formulating your own haircare products is not as intimidating as it might seem. These well-loved ingredients have been in use for generations, and have provided strengthening, nourishing, cleansing, and health-supporting properties for countless people. Why not give them a go—and study professional-quality formulation skills so your time isn’t wasted with trial and error? Come check out the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation and see all of the information that could be right at your fingertips, and get started today!

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The wonderful thing about making your own haircare products is that you get to customize them to suit your exact needs.

If you’re relatively new to product formulation, you might not be aware of just how customized your products can be. But even if you’ve started to play around a bit with your own formulations, there are always new options, new ingredients, and new, exciting customizations that your haircare products can be tweaked to include.

The sky truly is the limit!

Here are just a few of the powerful ingredients that you can include in your shampoos, conditioners, and other haircare products—masks, treatments, and styling products, just to name a few—and start to experience their amazing results.

1. Hydrolyzed plant protein.

Short chain peptide molecules from various plants, like corn, wheat, rice or soy, are often used in haircare products. They are completely natural and vegan, and bring wonderful benefits to haircare products: They can prevent hair dryness, give volume to the hair, protect it from sun and heat damage, and increase its ability to attract and retain hydration for truly dry and weary strands. Consider adding hydrolyzed plant protein if your hair is dry and damaged.

2. Glycerin.

This simple yet powerful addition to many haircare products is derived from vegetable oils. it is a very effective and easy to use moisturizer, it’s practically a must in shampoos and conditioners. It is a humectant which works by drawing moisture deep into the hair, and can even be beneficial for the scalp. For many folks with naturally curly hair, Glycerin is their secret weapon.

3. Surfactants.

Okay, we might be cheating just a tiny bit to name an entire ingredient group rather than a single ingredient, but hear us out: Surfactants are definitely your haircare friends. Surfactants are a big group of ingredients which provide different benefits from cleansing to conditioning, and they are crucial for effective haircare cosmetics. You can learn more about why they’re so crucial in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation!

4. Panthenol.

This is a specific form of Vitamin B5 which is a marvelous choice for dry hair in desperate need of hydration. It can nurture the hair, improves its elasticity and moisture levels, and can even be great for scalp health and hair growth!

5. Stinging Nettle Extract.

Roots of the stinging nettle contain phytochemicals that can prevent or slow down hair loss, plus they can help to make the hair stronger and healthier looking.

6. Broccoli seed oil.

The oil found in broccoli seeds contains very special fatty acids that have a similar effect to silicone. Even though the oil has a strong, somewhat unpleasant scent, it can make the hair nice and shiny, without weighing it down. Use sparingly (unless you really love the smell of broccoli!)

7. Caffeine.

An effective pick-me-up in your morning cup of coffee, but also a great cosmeceutical to stimulate hair growth! Caffeine works to increase blood flow to the scalp, and to the hair follicles themselves. Working caffeine extract into a scrub or scalp mask means applying it with a nice massage—which can definitely help as well!

These are just a handful of the amazing ingredients you can use to personalize your haircare products. Once you know the basic structure of a haircare formulation, you can get started right away making your own customized shampoo, conditioner, and other haircare products.

Whether your goal is to make the most amazing vegan deep-conditioning mask or the gentlest free-trade scalp-stimulating scrub, we’ve got you covered. There’s everything you need to know to find great ingredients, formulate exceptional products, and change up your haircare routine from the comfort of your own home, right here at the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation.

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Finding a shampoo that works for you, and keeps working, can be a struggle. It’s frustrating to feel like you have to compromise on your values, or try multiple products that don’t quite meet your hair’s needs. We’ve shared before how common this is for many of our students, and why it’s one of the reasons they are drawn to formulating their own shampoo instead.

One of the biggest reasons why we think people struggle to find the proper shampoo is because there are actually so many different kinds to choose from, and each type has its own benefits and potential drawbacks. This means that even a perfect shampoo that your friend recommends might not be perfect for your hair. With an understanding of different types of shampoo, you can help choose one that meets your needs—and maybe even get started on your journey to making them for yourself!

Regular Shampoo

A regular shampoo is simply a shampoo that is the most common template for formulation. Regular shampoos are intended to be used about every three to four days, and may or may not contain a very small amount of conditioning ingredients. Regular shampoos can be formulated for dry, normal, or oily hair, and simply remove dirt and sebum, and any styling products from the hair and scalp. They usually contain around 10–15% total active matter, and may also contain a variety of active ingredients that can be soothing, volumizing, fortifying, and so forth.

Daily Use Shampoo

A daily use shampoo is, as one might suspect from the name, meant to be used every day. Since they are used every day, the goal is a more gentle cleansing, which means they often contain far fewer surfactants (the ingredients that are responsible for cleaning) when compared to a regular shampoo. They are a good choice for people with fine or dry hair. They usually contain around 7–10% active matter, and—like regular shampoos—may or may not have a small amount of conditioning agents in them.

Conditioning / 2-in-1 Shampoo

A conditioning shampoo, sometimes called a 2-in-1 shampoo, typically contains more of the conditioning ingredients than a regular shampoo: Humectants, emollients, silicones, and/or cationic ingredients. These kinds of shampoos are excellent for damaged hair, and usually have a slightly lower total active matter, in the 9–14% range.

Clarifying Shampoo

Clarifying shampoos are made to do a bit more heavy lifting when it comes to clearing out product build-up in hair from extended use of things like silicones, styling products, or conditioners. Because of that, they are not meant for daily use, and best used when needed. They typically have a bit higher percentage of total active matter, around 13–17%, because they’ve got a stronger cleansing capability. To balance out the stronger cleansing of a clarifying shampoo, and avoid that ‘stripped’ feeling, humectants can be added to the formulation.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

Focusing slightly more on the scalp than on the hair itself, anti-dandruff shampoos can be regular, daily-use, or clarifying shampoos with added botanical ingredients to provide cleansing, soothing, and antimicrobial (or antifungal) benefits specifically targeted to dandruff-prone hair. Some useful ingredients can include aloe vera powder, willow bark extract (or salicylic acid) and tea tree essential oil, for example.

Solid or Dry Shampoo

Both solid shampoo and dry shampoo have different formulation considerations due to their form. In the case of solid shampoos, they contain little to no water, which is what gives it the solid form. The total active matter of a solid shampoo is very high because of this: 50–80%, because it works as a concentrate that is diluted with water during use.

With dry shampoos, although they are called shampoo, dry shampoo really isn’t the same thing, in terms of formulation and functional ingredients. Typically, they focus on simply absorbing hair oils as opposed to actually cleaning the hair or scalp. It’s important to be aware that relying solely on dry shampoo for long stretches of time can cause build-up and potentially adverse effects to your hair and scalp. Pairing a natural dry shampoo with a good clarifying shampoo and hydrating conditioner will keep your hair in balance.

Thinking like a Formulator

If you’re starting to consider maybe you’d like to try formulating your own shampoo, that’s great! We have so many resources available (including an amazing Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation course that you can get started on right away!) for you to begin your journey. Empowered with this new knowledge, you can start making your own amazing natural shampoos with the finest organic, green, and even vegan ingredients. Get a good foundation of the basics of shampoo formulation, and then adapt from there as you learn, adding in botanicals, high-performance natural ingredients, and customizing the fragrance and feel of them to be exactly what you’ve been looking for.

(Not to mention that the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation also covers conditioners, hair treatments, and styling products… want to know more?)

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Finding the right shampoo that works for your hair can be difficult, even under the best circumstances. For many, the struggle means a cycle of buying new bottles of product to try, maybe finding something that works for a while, but eventually starts being less than perfect, throwing out unused product, and switching brands while still not quite finding the right fit.

The needs of each person’s haircare can be so different; long, fine, color-treated hair needs a completely different type of care and ingredients than short, thick hair that’s never been touched by a chemical process. Stick-straight hair needs different handling than wavy or curly hair needs… And that says nothing about scalp care, which can range from oily to flaky to everywhere in-between. Haircare seems like an escape room or complex puzzle, one that most people just accept they’ll only get half-right. Just ‘good enough.’

This cycle of searching seems to just be a given for most people—but it doesn’t have to be that way!

What if you could find the perfect shampoo for your hair, one that provided exactly the right cleansing, smoothing, and nourishment to your strands. You can!

It’s so rewarding to be able to make your own haircare products. You can personalize them, play around with ingredients, and customize it precisely how you wish. You can translate that cycle of buy, try, repeat into one that adds to your knowledge and skill, not to your frustration. One that takes you to a wonderful end result, not just more bottles in the trash.

Don’t Compromise, Innovate

Making your own shampoo isn’t just about creating a product to sell. While we do have many students who intend to develop a business and product line, not all of them have that as an immediate or even end goal. Sometimes, people just are tired of products that aren’t working for them, and want to learn how to make their own. Whether driven by ethics and values, or challenged by a stubborn skincare or haircare condition that hasn’t been addressed by what they’ve found so far, our students are united in their goal of making the very best products, without compromise.

We’ve said it before, and it’s still true: Natural beauty lovers don’t want to compromise between products that work and products that support their most cherished values. When ‘good enough’ isn’t fully in alignment, no amount of shiny, silky hair will make them feel at ease. How frustrating it must be for someone who believes deeply in cruelty-free or vegan products, and their supposed only option for their haircare means they have to choose a product that doesn’t fit their values.

They don’t have to, though. And you don’t have to, either.

Detangle Your Haircare Routine

You shouldn’t have to just make do. You don’t need to struggle or keep changing products. And you don’t need to pick ones that don’t fit your values. There’s a better way:

• Learn about the structure and function of hair.
• Discover your hair’s unique needs, and what hasn’t been working so far.
• Study about the basic shampoo recipe, then learn how to adjust and customize it.

We are so pleased to offer a Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation, an intermediate, fully online course aimed at helping you solve this exact problem. Quit struggling with your shampoo and other haircare products, and start formulating ones that work for you—for your hair, and your values—without compromise.

Curly, coily, kinky, wavy, or wiry, the spectrum of Afro-textured hair is as beautiful as it is distinctive. Within each of the three broad hair categories—Asian, Caucasian, and African—there’s a wide array of subtypes, variations, and specific challenges, but of the three types, there’s so much more to consider when formulating products for Afro-textured hair.

People who have this hair type, and are used to its specific needs, often are used to searching high and low for rich, nourishing, and protective products to help maintain the health and beauty of their naturally stunning hair. It’s obviously much easier to field-test your DIY formulations when they apply to your hair type! But if you’re not used to this hair type, and you’re interested in formulating products specifically for it, there are some important things you need to know.

First, let’s talk about what makes Afro-textured hair so unique.

It’s All In The Curls

Although it appears quite dense and voluminous due to the curl structure, it is that very curl structure which makes Afro-textured hair the most delicate of all the hair types. To understand why, let’s go right down to the root!

Again, speaking very broadly, of the three types, Asian hair tends to grow the fastest, and nearly perpendicular to the scalp; the cross-section of each hair shaft is nearly circular. Caucasian hair can be more of an oval in cross-section, and it tends to grow moderately fast, depending on the subtype. Afro-textured hair tends to be the slowest to grow, and it grows at the most oblique angle to the scalp. It also has a very flat cross-section, much like a compressed oval, which is why curls happen. This means the hair can be weaker as compared to more oval or more round hair shapes.

So, because of this shape, it’s been said that this hair type needs to be treated like a fine silk blouse. You wouldn’t scrub a beautiful silk blouse and wring it out, you’d treat it gently, to prevent damage. By this same theory, think of the way your products are delivered, and consider if the method of delivery is too rough for this hair type. It needs to be pampered!

Moisture is Key!

Another very important thing to consider when formulating products for this hair type is that Afro-textured hair gets very dry, very easily—even if the scalp is oily. Certain products that are formulated to suit straighter or less fragile hair are simply not a great choice for Afro-textured hair. For example, shampoos that are formulated to reduce the appearance and feeling of oil in the hair will not treat this hair type with the tenderness it deserves! And lightweight conditioners may not penetrate the hair well.

However, when nurtured with all of the moisture it deserves, this hair type can be lustrous, glossy, and absolutely stunning! As you learn to formulate your products with the customer in mind, you’ll learn very quickly that the customer’s individual needs and desired results dictate not just what ingredients go into a specific formulation, but also what kind of formulations and products may be more (or less) useful to that customer.

Formulating With the Customer In Mind

How do you keep the customer in mind?

Well, for many folks, their very first customer is themselves! This may be true for you, and you may have one of the many subtypes that fall under the Afro-textured hair category—but if it’s not, then you need to do your research.

Ask your ideal customers: What are they using, what’s working, and what isn’t quite right? What product are they searching for, and can you meet that need with something natural, organic, and effective for this hair type? And if you’re formulating for yourself, and the shampoo you’re using just isn’t working, there is likely a better way to get your hair clean without using a shampoo better suited to a different hair type. Exploring all of these other formulation options allows you to truly formulate with the customer in mind.

If you want to formulate with a customer in mind, we wrote an article about how to do this for skincare. You might like to check it out because the ideas are transferable.

Rethinking Shampoo and Conditioner

With all of the information you glean from your target customers, what themes and ideas seem similar? What opportunities stand out to you as possible products?

Some examples may include:

Co-Wash

While wavy, straight, fine, or thin types of hair can tolerate more vigorous shampooing, ones targeted at reducing the appearance of oily hair and scalp, drier, more delicate curly, coily, or kinky hair has very different needs! In fact, for some Afro-textured hair subtypes, skipping shampoo altogether and relying on a co-wash—a gentle conditioning wash—can be a much better idea. So if you’re thinking of adding a shampoo product to your own line that’s targeted at people with African hair, take a step back and look at what their needs actually are. Is there a need for a traditional shampoo, or is there something better out there?

Conditioning Masks

Formulating conditioners for Afro-textured hair also requires some careful study. Because the hair is so dry and delicate, the kind of lightweight conditioners designed to keep from weighing finer hair down just will not do the trick—they aren’t nourishing enough for Afro-textured hair! Have you considered offering a weekly deep-conditioning treatment, or post-wash mask?

Treatments and Balms

Additional treatments, specifically targeted to the needs of Afro-textured hair, are great choices of products as well. This can include pre-wash masks, leave-in sprays, and balms that hydrate and renew, in preparation for heat or styling. These may be things that your customers with Asian or Caucasian hair types just don’t consider; many deep-hydrating balms and masks aren’t at all suited to fine, straight Caucasian hair.

Key Things to Remember

• Know your audience. Really know them, and listen to what they’re saying.
• Expand your formulation skills and knowledge, and think outside the Caucasian hair box.
• Give yourself the skills to create safe, effective, unique products that are natural and organic, work beautifully, and make people feel like their hair has never looked more healthy or more radiant!  

There’s so much you can do, and the Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation is your jumping-off point, to really kickstart your learning. If you’ve been offering a few hair care products, but you want to expand your skills or dive into a whole new market, the Diploma will help you start doing it. Come on over and give it a try!

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When it comes to anything you apply to your hair, scalp, or skin, having the proper pH is incredibly important. But, it’s often overlooked, especially in DIY recipes. While most of the recipes you might encounter online aren’t going to be too bad for your hair and scalp, they might not be great for it, either—especially over an extended period of time.

When we ran our last detox challenge, we had quite a few people comment that they either didn’t know how to find out what pH their current products were, or didn’t see the significance of testing. We wanted to address the subject of pH, specifically covering hair care products, to help people understand why it’s so important to know.

What’s pH, And Why Is It Important For Hair Care?

Put quite simply, pH is a scale of how acidic something is. It goes from 0, the most acidic, to 14, the most basic (or alkaline.) pH can only be measured in water-based solutions; oil-based products don’t have a pH. Products that are considered neutral have a pH that’s right in the middle of the scale, usually around a 7.

When it comes to skin care, products that are too acidic (with a pH below 2.5) or too alkaline / basic (with a pH above 10) can be extremely irritating to the skin, and can even cause a burning sensation. The typical skin pH is somewhere around 5.5. As we’ve shared before, skin is alive, and hair is dead; this means that skin can balance itself back to a healthier pH, after a soap or other topical treatment has been applied, while hair cannot. You still want to be safe, and formulate skin care products that are within a reasonable pH range.

Hair, however, is not skin. It can’t repair itself the way skin does, or heal from damage resulting from products that are too acidic, or too alkaline. This makes pH extremely important for your hair care products! With products that are the incorrect pH, the hair’s cuticle will not be closed, leading to staticy, easily-tangled hair that is difficult to style and comb, and much more prone to damage. In fact, one of the most common sources of damage to hair is due to using products with an incorrect pH.

But of course, you don’t want damaged hair! You want radiant, healthy-looking hair that feels nice, soft, and smooth. You want hair that is as healthy as it can be. To help you with that goal, you absolutely must be nurturing it and looking after it—and that means you need to make sure you are using the right products, with the right ingredients, and the right pH: Somewhere between a 4 and a 7, close to the natural pH of the hair and the scalp.

How Do I Test The pH Of My Products?

Great! So… what do you do with this information? Now that you know what pH is, and why it’s so important for your hair care, how on earth do you go about checking the pH of your products—whether homemade or store-bought? Fortunately, it’s not as complicated as you might think. Even though it might sound quite scientific, it’s very easy to test—even if science is not your best subject!

The great news is, you can measure pH quite easily at home. The simplest and cheapest method is using paper pH test strips, which come with a color guide. Simply dip the strip into the product, compare the resulting color to the chart, and you’ve got a reading. These strips are usually available in all sorts of places, from craft stores to toy shops to pet stores, and also online. However, while they are cheap and very easy to use, they are a little less precise.

Another method of testing pH is to use a pH meter. You dip the electrode into the product and read the measurement. You may need to dilute the product if it’s quite thick. These meters are a bit more expensive, but much more accurate. If you cannot find one locally, a pH meter can be purchased from an online shop, such as Lotioncrafter.

Ready To Test? Let’s Try It Out!

It’s so easy to get started—and since avoiding products with an incorrect pH is so crucial for your hair’s health, it’s such a simple change to make, too! Go out and get yourself some pH test strips, or a meter, and start testing your own hair care products. What do you find? What surprises you? Is there anything that is outside of that 4–7 range? If so, it might be time to make a change!

And, of course, even if the pH of your hair care products is roughly correct, there can still be other factors that influence the health of your hair. There might be other products you wish to avoid, and switching to more natural products is a great first step. As we’ve shared in previous articles, there are plenty of ingredients in commercially-available products which you might want to detox from your routines. Go ahead and check that one out, and see what else you can spot on your ingredient list! You might be surprised at what you find!

But ultimately, the only way you’ll truly know if your products are right for you is to make them yourself! Making your own shampoos and conditioners is not as difficult as you might think. You just need the right instruction. That’s what we teach in our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation. Go ahead and check it out! You’ll learn the way professional formulators create their natural and organic products, custom-crafted to meet your hair’s needs and treat your specific concerns.

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