These days many people want to avoid surfactant-based cleansers like face wash and foaming facial cleansers as they can be too harsh for the skin and strip it of its natural oils.

In her book ‘Skincare: The No Nonsense Guide’, skincare guru Caroline Hirons is adamant about not including “anything foaming” in your facial cleansing routine. She adds,

These products are too drying. Full stop.

Luckily there are a wide range of beautiful, gentle natural cleansers you can formulate that are very effective without stripping your skin, for example:

• Cleansing oils and oil-to-milk cleansers.
• Gel-to-milk cleansers (cleansing gels).
• Cleansing balms.
• Cleansing lotions or milks.

In our Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation you’ll learn how to formulate each of these types of cleanser. We provide detailed information about the special ingredients you’ll need, professional product formulations, natural skincare formulation templates and demonstration videos, so you can see exactly how to create them! 

Why do we need natural cleansers for our skin?

Cleansers are the cornerstone of a good skincare regime! Cleansers are used in the evening before going to bed to remove dirt and grime accumulated throughout the day, and any make-up or SPF. 

Cleansing in the morning is also advised as during the night the skin undergoes a restoration process that results in dead skin cells and excess sebum, which need to be removed. 

Let’s look at each type of cleanser in turn! 

Four different types of (non-foaming) cleansers in natural skincare

Here is a summary of non-foaming cleansers and their formula type:

Cleansing oil and oil-to-milk cleansers

As the name suggests, these are oil-based products. Natural skincare cleansing oils will contain a blend of plant oils, whilst more conventional cleansing oils are likely to contain mineral oil. This product type is applied to dry skin and then rinsed off with water (sometimes with the help of a washcloth). 

Some cleansing oils contain special emulsifiers that are self-emulsifying. 

These emulsifiers create oil-to-milk formulas that become milky emulsions when they come into contact with water during the rinsing off stage.

How they work:

When cleansing oil is massaged into the skin, the oils in the formula naturally spread and dissolve pre-existing oil/dirt on the skin, such as sebum and make-up.

In oil-to-milk formulas the oils emulsify on contact with water, turning the product milky, allowing both oil and water soluble impurities to be removed and helping the product rinse off easily. 

Skin is left soft and nurtured; not dry or greasy.

Benefits:

• Cleansing oils effectively remove impurities whilst maintaining the skin’s natural moisture balance.
• These types of natural skincare products tend to incorporate highly moisturizing oils such as jojoba oil, which condition the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and soft once removed.
• Formulas are likely to contain a percentage of essentials oils that will have their own specific benefits.
• A small amount of the product will go a long way.
• The oil texture of the formula allows the product to spread onto the skin and instantly blend with make-up and impurities and lift them, without rubbing.
• Anhydrous formulas don’t require a preservative.

Cleansing oils can be formulated for any skin type. 

They are particularly suited for dry and sensitive skin types. 

Cleansing oils can help dry skin maintain its natural moisturizing factor and pH level. They are suited to sensitive skin as very little rubbing is required to remove the oil, dirt and make-up. They also have mild properties so they should not cause irritation. If you want to find out more about pH testing, read our article here. 

Gel-to-milk cleansers (cleansing gels)

There are some very exciting and innovative self-emulsifying emulsifiers available today in natural skincare which create gel-to-milk cleansers. These work in a very similar way to oil-to-milk cleansers and have the same benefits but they are thicker in consistency. When they are dispensed they are gel, but when you add water they turn milky. 

These are such fun natural skincare products to formulate because you can also add exfoliants to them to transform them into facial scrubs. 

We have been experimenting with these a lot in preparation for the release of the Third Edition of our Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation!

Here is one of the cleansing gel formulas that we share with you in the course…

Cleansing balms

Cleansing balms are also similar to cleansing oils, but have a semi-solid consistency. They are usually a blend of oils, butters and wax and can include an emulsifier. 

Cleansing balms have become incredibly popular types of cleansers in recent years. 

Using a special emulsifier that is self-emulsifying in your natural skincare formula means that the balm rinses off more easily.

Cleansing lotion/milk

These are emulsion-based cleansers that contain both oil and water, held together with an emulsifier. The viscosity can vary so you can create light, fluid cleansing milks or a thicker, lotion consistency.

How they work:

Cleansing lotion/milk contains ingredients such as lightweight oils and emollients, which are known as lipid molecules. At a molecular level, these ingredients contain components that are hydrophobic, also known as lipophilic. 

This structure means the molecule repels water and attracts oil and dirt. 

Once the cleansing lotion/milk has been applied to the skin, the hydrophobic component attaches to the oil and dirt, loosening the forces holding them onto the skin, and in turn allowing the water to remove them more easily. 

Benefits:

• Cleansing milks are moisturizing and non-drying due to the oil they contain.
• Cleansing milks clean the skin without stripping it of its natural oils and disrupting the skin’s natural pH.
• This type of product maintains the skin’s natural moisturizing factors, which keep the skin hydrated, healthy and balanced.
• When used with a cloth, a very thorough cleanse is achieved.

Cleaning lotions can be formulated for any skin type. Due to the gentle nature of cleansing milks, they are ideal for normal to combination skin types or dry skin types.

The star ingredient: Self-emulsifying emulsifiers

The star ingredient in many of these formulas is a self-emulsifying emulsifier. 

These are new and innovative ingredients that are revolutionizing natural cosmetics! 

A regular emulsifier only makes an emulsion, eg a cream or lotion. Self-emulsifying emulsifiers make a special kind of oil-based product (not an emulsion). They create an interesting and unusual sensory experience for the user as they look and feel like an oil or a gel when they are applied to the skin. But when water is applied (to rinse the product off), the product becomes an emulsion on the skin, it turns milky, and the product and the dirt/makeup it removes rinses away much more easily than a regular oil or cleansing balm does.

Self-emulsifying emulsifiers  leave the skin feeling soft and nourished (but not oily). A variety of self-emulsifying emulsifiers are available.

Our team of professional formulators have carried out extensive testing on many of these ingredients to find the perfect ratio to use in your formulations. We share all of this with you in our Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation, plus our tutors are on hand to help you troubleshoot any issues that may arise.

Enrolling with the School by joining the Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation is the fast track to creating your own professional quality natural skincare formulations, either for yourself or to sell. The course teaches you everything you need to know to make your own unique formulations as well as safe, stable and effective natural skincare products. 

During your studies you’ll also learn the fundamentals of skin biology, international cosmetic regulations, the science of natural emulsification and natural preservation, as well as what’s required to set up and launch a successful brand with a unique product range.

The course is fully online meaning you can study in your own time, at your own pace, from wherever you are in the world. Plus, not only do you gain access to your course materials, but you also get to collaborate with your peers and the course tutors in our private online student and graduate community.

If you want to start formulating and are not quite sure you are ready for the course, check out our amazing Beginners guide to formulating natural skincare products. This will get you up and running!

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So what’s the problem with following recipes?

If we only follow recipes then we’re limiting ourselves to learning from others when instead we could just as easily learn the art and science to create products ourselves and create our own recipes!

1. Recipes are only as good as the person who created them and often you don’t know them so you don’t know how reliable they are.
2. Books go out of date (as do blogs), which means you can’t be sure how reliable they are, or whether they are up to date, or more importantly whether they are safe.
3. There’s also no support which means if you find a problem with your product (or need to check some information), you probably won’t find it that easy to get some tips to fix the problem.
4. It’s difficult to adapt or change the recipe if you don’t understand how to do this, and if you do, you run the risk of doing something incorrect or unsafe!

Don’t get us wrong, when learning to make products, following recipes has its place.

1. They are a great starting point to help us get used to the actual act of making products when all we really need to focus on is the how-to.
2. They are also a great way of getting inspiration when we become skillful product creators.
3. If we find a recipe that looks good and like something we might like, then heck, why not go for it? Absolutely!

BUT if you STOP following other people’s recipes and instead CREATE your OWN products and recipes you can then begin to do so much more!

(This is called formulating, by the way.)

8 reasons not to follow recipes and instead formulate (design) your own products:

1) You can make products tailored to your specific skin needs and preferences

Your skin has certain needs that you want to address. For example, it might be oily, dry or wrinkles might be appearing. This might be combined with other needs such as sensitivity to essential oils or patches of eczema.

You also probably have certain preferences (likes and dislikes) when it comes to products. For example you love floral fragrances or you hate the medicinal smell of tea tree. You love cleansing balms and don’t like cleansing lotions.

When you design your own products you can consider BOTH your needs AND preferences to create your IDEAL product!

An example here is that lots of products aimed at acne-prone skin contain tea tree which is a fab ingredient for addressing the NEEDS and problems of this skin type BUT many people don’t like the smell (so it’s not suiting their preferences).

2) It’s the only way to make products that your customers will love

If you want to sell your products you will want to make products that:

1. Are really good quality, safe and stable.
2. Your customers love and keep coming back for.

The way to make something they love is to make something that suits their needs and preferences. You’ll never find a ready-to-follow recipe that knows exactly what your ideal customers need and like. You’ll need to create that yourself.

3) You can really begin to weave your values into your products

What is important to you? What do you wish you could change about the skincare products on the market?

When you formulate your own products you can formulate with this in mind too!

For example:

• You might want to create vegan products that don’t contain beeswax.
• Or your son might have a nut allergy and you want to make a nut-free product.
• You might want to create feel-good products that help you feel positive and uplifted when you use them.
• You might want to lower your carbon footprint and use as many locally sourced ingredients as possible.

Values important to you personally, or to your customers, can be taken into consideration when creating your own product formulations.

4) Make the perfect product

You have probably experienced following a recipe but not really liking the finished product. Or making a product and being disappointed in the (lack of) results it gives.

When you learn how a recipe or formula is put together and the function of different ingredients you also know how to adapt, vary and change the product. So if you make something that you don’t like (eg too greasy, too thin, too hard, it separates, etc) you know how to put it right. You can also use ingredients that will really give you the results you want.

5) Create high quality, safe and stable products

As our Checklist: how to make sure the skincare products you make are safe and stable points out, there are TONS of unsafe recipes floating around on the internet.

By learning how to make your own products properly, you’ll also learn how to do it according to industry regulations and safety guidelines. This gives you peace of mind that what you are using, selling or giving away is high quality, safe and stable.

6) Save time and costly mistakes

Following on from points 4 and 5, when you formulate your own product you will spend a fair amount of time creating your recipe on paper first before actually making it. When you do this and do this properly it will save you both time and mistakes that ultimately cost you money.

7) Become more independent and self-reliant

Rather than dashing off to the nearest Facebook group every time you want to know something or fix a problem (and get advice that may or may not be helpful and correct), you’ll have developed the mindset to solve it yourself. Imagine how wonderful that will feel!

8) Make your mark, create something unique and different – and have fun!

Formulating your own products is a wonderful opportunity to express your individuality and creativity. Plus, choosing and experimenting with butters, oils, essential oils and botanical extracts is a huge amount of fun, too.

Like the sound of formulating your own products?

We are frequently asked about natural preservatives for cosmetics. So today we are sharing three broad spectrum preservatives, either derived from natural sources or nature identical, that are readily available, easy to use and carry organic certification.

Would you rather download this guide and learn about natural emulsifiers too? Then click below for your free guide!

When and why do you need to use preservatives?

Cosmetic products need to be be preserved in order to prevent microbial spoilage that would make the product unsafe for consumers.

Preservatives play a very important function in products containing water: they kill microorganisms and water-borne bacteria, and prevent the growth of bacteria, mold and yeast. If a product contains water (including hydrosols, floral water and aloe vera juice, all of which contain water), a preservative is essential to help prevent microbes growing.

Anhydrous (water-free) products generally don’t require preservatives as they are not prone to microbial contamination. This includes products like lip balms and anhydrous whipped body butters. The exception here is an anhydrous product that might come into contact with water (eg a body scrub or a cleansing balm applied with wet fingers). With these types of products you either need to be very careful not to introduce water to the product during use, or you should include a preservative.

You will need to use a broad spectrum preservative, which means it is effective against bacteria, mold and yeast.

It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the amount of preservative to use; too much or too little could be potentially hazardous.

The only way to know that your preservative is working sufficiently is to have a microbiological challenge test carried out by a lab. This is recommended (and in some countries compulsory) if you are selling your products.

Vitamin E, rosemary extract and grapefruit seed extract are not preservatives.

Here are 3 broad spectrum natural preservatives for cosmetics: 

The preservatives in the list below are all approved for use in certified organic products. They are either derived from natural sources or are nature identical.

REMEMBER: It is your responsibility to check the efficacy of your preservative system. We strongly recommend having a microbiological challenge test carried out by a lab as this is the only way to be completely sure that your preservative system is effective. You can find more information on product testing here: Guide to cosmetic product testing and safety assessments.

1. Preservative Eco

Other trade names include Mikrokill ECT, Geogard ECT and Plantaserv M.

INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid

(Meets Ecocert and COSMOS Standards)

This is a broad spectrum preservative which contains four different components: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin and Sorbic Acid. These molecules are all found in nature in plants such as pine resin, rowan berries and willow bark. It is a non-paraben, non-formaldehyde, non-isothiazolone based preservative system.

It’s a liquid that is added to the cooling phase of a cream. It has a slight almond-like smell that is normally not detectable in the finished product. Over time, benzyl alcohol oxidizes to benzaldehyde, which has a strong almond smell. Suitable for use in oil-in-water, water-in-oil and water based formulas, so compatible with a wide range of skin, hair and sun care formulations.

Available from Aromantic (UK). Also sold as Geogard™ ECT available from Voyageur Soap and Candle Company(USA) and Plantaserv M available from New Directions (Australia).

It’s usually used at 1% in water based products.

Not permitted in products for children under the age of three years due to the salicylic acid content.

It is supposed to have a wide pH compatibility of pH 3-8, but it’s most effective at pH below 5.5.

2. Geogard 221 

INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid

(Meets Ecocert and COSMOS standards, NaTrue Certified and Soil Association approved)

An Ecocert approved, multi-use, broad spectrum preservative system that is a synergistic blend of an organic acid and alcohol that can be added at room and elevated temperatures. Dehydroacetic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol are both organic compounds which are accepted for use in natural cosmetics, offering a broad spectrum of stability at a wide range of pH. The organic preservative compound is a non-paraben, non-formaldehyde, non isothiazolone based preservative system.

Available from Naturally Thinking (UK), Making Cosmetics (USA) and Go Native (NZ).

It is water soluble with an effective pH from pH 2-6; it’s most efficient at pH below 5.5.

Typical recommended use level is 0.2-1%.

3. Naticide / Plantaserv Q

INCI: Fragrance or Parfum

A broad spectrum preservative effective against Gram+, Gram -, yeasts and molds. Naticide is naturally derived fragrance mixture that has a sweet vanilla/almond-like scent, and this remains in the end formulation. This preservative is popular with natural companies in Australia and New Zealand.

It is effective at a pH of 4-9, but it’s best used at pH 4-5.

Typical recommended use level is up to 0.3- 1%. Depending on the type of formulation, it’s best to use it at 1%. Up to 0.6% is soluble in water, the rest (0.4%) must be added in the cool down phase of an emulsion. Due to limited water solubility (up to 0.6%) it’s not suitable for water based products, like toners or spritzes. Further details can be obtained from the supplier Sinerga.

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So many of you want to make natural or organic creams and lotions, and for that there is one essential ingredient needed: a natural and organic emulsifier for cosmetics.

We’ve put together this quick guide to three of our favourite natural and organic emulsifiers to help you create your own beautiful natural skincare products.

Would you rather download this guide and learn about natural preservatives too? Then click below for your free guide!

What are emulsifiers and why are they used in cosmetics?

A cream or lotion contains an oil phase and a water phase. As oil and water do not naturally mix together, in order to make a cream or lotion an emulsifier is needed.

Emulsifiers contain a hydrophilic element (water loving) and lipophilic element (oil loving). This means they are attracted to both oil and water, which allows them to bind the two together to form a stable mixture. Note that beeswax is not a emulsifier; it will not create stable emulsions.

3 Natural and organic emulsifiers for cosmetics

Here we feature three modern, natural emulsifiers made to ecological principles with no petrochemicals or solvents. These are all-in-one emulsifiers that do not require additional or ‘co’ emulsifiers.

We have included the INCI name along with the trade name under which it is sold. When searching for these ingredients online, use the INCI name as they may be sold under a few different trade names.

In addition to a reliable emulsifier it is recommended that you also use stabilizers/ thickeners in your formula to enhance the stability of the emulsion; for example you can add 0.2-0.5% xanthan gum to the water phase and/or 2% cetyl alcohol to the oil phase.

1. Xyliance

INCI: Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glucosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol.

Accepted by Ecocert.

Sold by The Herbarie (USA) and in Europe from Huiles et Sens.

This emulsifier is made of 100% plant origin in which the sugar (xylose) is derived from wheat straw (hence the name) and the fatty alcohols are derived from rapeseed and palm. This is the ideal emulsifier for beginners because it’s easy to use and creates very stable emulsions. Perfect for rich cream textures which are non-greasy.

Very suitable for anti-aging or very hydrating creams. It works best with emulsions that have high oil phase content (about 25%).

To be used in the oil phase (70℃).

Dosage:

4-5% for a lotion or serum

8% for a cream

2. ECOMulse/NatraMulse/Ritamulse SCG

INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate.

Also sold separately as VE Emulsifier,  MF Emulsifier and cetearyl alcohol.

Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers.

It’s naturally derived ( from coconut, palm and palm kernel).

Another easy-to-use emulsifier which creates smooth and creamy emulsions. Very versatile, as it helps create a wide range of textures – from milks to heavy creams depending on dosage used.

Imparts an elegant, smooth and cool feeling to a formulation, making it ideal for oilier/combination skin types, eye contour care, body milks and non-greasy creams for the hands and body.

Works in an ideal pH range of 5-7.5: outside of this pH range can de-stabilize the emulsion resulting in splitting or separation.

To be used in the oil phase (70℃).

Dosage:

3% for a milk with added 0.3% xanthan gum to ensure stability

4% for a serum

5% for a lotion

8% for a cream

Important note: ECOMulse is anionic therefore it is recommended that it should not be used with ingredients that do not mix well with anionic ingredients.

In the UK, where this emulsifier isn’t available as an all-in-one product, the alternative is to use Glyceryl Stearate (also sold as VE Emulsifier) with Sodium Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (also sold as  MF Emulsifier) and cetearyl alcohol.

3. Olivem 1000

INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate.

Accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers.

This emulsifier is derived from natural olive chemistry. It is an emulsifier and thickener in one which is compatible with a wide variety of cosmetic and active ingredients over a wide pH range (3 to 12).

Safe and clinically tested to be hypoallergenic, it provides creams with an excellent moisturizing effect and spreadability with a creamy, non-oily, cool touch.

Ideal for wrinkle care for both eye contour and face, as it is very moisturizing.

To be used in the oil phase (70-75℃).

Dosage:

5% for a serum

6% for a lotion or lighter cream

8% for a cream

If you have problems with the stability of this emulsifier, you can try using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 1%-4% cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol, and 0.2-0.5% xanthan gum to form a stable emulsion.

We hope this is useful! Enjoy creating your gorgeous natural creams and lotions!

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